Betta mahachaiensis is a new species of bubble-nesting fighting fish. What makes it special? Find out here
Betta mahachaiensis is distinguishable from other members of the B. splendens group in having an iridescent green/bluish-green appearance on the brown-to-black bodybackground.
This article gives you a complete overview of the Betta mahachaiensis.
Betta mahachaiensis: Short Profile
|Feature||Betta mahachaiensis Profile|
|Aquarium size:||54 l / 60cm 112 l / 80cm 160 l / 100cm 240 l / 120cm 360 l / 140cm 600 l / 160cm 1000 l / 200cm 2000 l / 250cm 5000 l / 350cm|
|Number:||They can be paired in group of 3 or more|
|Socialization:||They thrive well in community aquariums|
|Temperature:||23 ° C – 27 ° C|
|Origin:||Asia: Bangkok, Samut Sakhon, Samut Songkhram & Samut Prakan|
|Aquarium region:||They prefer the upper third middle|
|Water hardness:||medium hard|
|pH range:||pH 6.5-7|
|Lining:||Dry food, frozen food & live food carnivorous|
|Gender differences:||Males colored males with extended (anal and dorsal fin) |
Females tend to be fuller
|Propagation:||They are foam nest builder|
Betta mahachaiensis: Gallery
Betta mahachaiensis: Complete Profile
|Feature||Betta mahachaiensis Profile|
|Ideal habitat||etta mahachaiensis “Mahachai” occur in the swampy areas along the Chao Phraya from Bangkok to the coast.|
And the swampy coastal waters from Samut Prakan to Samut Songkhram.
|Sexual characteristics||The male has the basic color brown with a blue glossy surface color which, depending on the incidence of light, shimmers to a turquoise-green shimmer. |
The anal fin is drawn out at the end.
Depending on where it was found, the caudal is round to spade-shaped.
The female is rather inconspicuous and shows her shiny scales only very slightly.
Also here the fins are noticeably less drawn out than in the males.
In females ready to spawn, not only is a spawning papilla clearly visible, but also a vertically striped brown-pink color.
|Males willing to breed build a foam nest. |
Here, too, the male wraps around the female.
The female releases the eggs.
These lie on the concave shaped anal of the male.
Here these are fertilized by the male.
After awakening from paralysis, the male picks up the eggs with his mouth.
He now spits it into the foam nest.
This process is repeated several times.
|Brood care||The male watches carefully under the foam nest and occasionally cleans the clutch by taking isolated eggs into its mouth and spitting them back into the nest. |
Should eggs fall out of the nest, they will be collected and also returned.
The larvae hatch between 24 hours and 48 hours, depending on the temperature and water parameters.
The male takes care of the brood until the larvae swim freely.
|Ideal Aquarium setup||• You will need one or two tanks with the dimensions 30cm x 20cm x 20cm (12L) for breeding.|
• Add sand or fine-grain gravel as the substrate. The selection of the substrate has no influence and can therefore be chosen freely.
• In addition to a heating element and a sponge filter (which only bubbles slightly), set up enough hiding places such as roots, leaves and plants.
• In the corner of the aquarium add a shard of clay or slate that the female can swim behind and thus escape from the male’s field of vision.
• Place a piece of Styrodur / Styrofoam on the surface of the water. This is where the foam nest is usually attached.
|Water value||Temperature: 22 ° – 28 °|
PH: 7 – 8
KH: 3 – 6
dH: 10 – 25
|Number of animals / sex ratio:||Only use pairs for breeding.|
Feed the breeding animals high in protein with frozen food or live white mosquito larvae. Nothing speaks against living Tubifex or red mosquito larvae.
To raise the young, use slipper animals (if necessary), Artemia nauplii, micro-worms, Grindal and later the same food as with the breeding animals.
|Socialization||The animals are very spirited, both males and females, which is why I personally don’t want to suggest socialization. In addition, there is the salt content, because depending on whether you have offspring or wild caught, it must be quite high.|
|Nutrition||They are carnivores or insectivore, that is, they feed on animal food. In the aquarium you can feed them a lot and they are not picky either.|
The following are ideal food to feed Betta mahachaiensis:
• Insect larvae
• Mosquito larvae, whether live or frozen
• Dry food is also accepted, but should only be given occasionally and only varieties with high meat content.
• Small fruit flies, woodlice or small maggots are just as welcome.
Betta mahachaiensis: How to breed
1. Set up the permanent Betta mahachaiensis tank
First of all, you will have to set up your permanent tank for the Betta mahachaiensis before you start breeding.
2. Set up the Betta mahachaiensis breeding tank
- Setup up a new breeding tank. You will need a new breeding tank because:
- fry are extremely fragile and need pristine water conditions
- you will need to remove your male after the fry are swimming
- When the fry are free swimming, you will need to remove your male (which you can’t do if it’s his tank) so he doesn’t see them as threat.
3. Choose a breeding pair
Your goal is to make sure that you pick a breeding pair that will be successful. Read the tips below on how to pick the best pair of breeding Betta mahachaiensis
4. Create optimal breeding conditions
Optimal breeding conditions will guarantee that your hatches survive:
- Fill your tank with enough water (between 3 to 5 inches). Make sure that it is not too deep to allow the fry access to the surface
- Add your sponge filter and air pump.
- Place a heater in at an angle so it’s fully submerged it to 80 degrees.
- Add Almond leaf or styrofoam cup for the bubble nest
- Create plenty of places for your fish to hide
- Let it sit for 24 hours.
5. Introduce your male Betta mahachaiensis to the female
Once you are done setting up the aquarium, it’s time to introduce the male to the female.
6. Let the pair breed
Let the breeding pair mate. Just make sure that the breeding tank remains the same.
7. Watch the male Betta mahachaiensis looking after the nest
The male will spend around 2 days looking after the eggs: mouthing them and blowing more bubbles.
8. The fry will then finally hatch
As soon as the fry are free-swimming, remove the male and give them their first feeding of small brine shrimp, microworms, vinegar eels, or infurisa.
Betta mahachaiensis: Tips & Tricks on choosing a male for breeding
When picking a male Betta Mahachaiensis for breeding, you should consider the following factors:
When the male is energetic, the female will easily see the male as a viable breeding partner.
Coloration will indicate to the female that the male is healthy
If the male has any marks or signs of damage, it’s unlikely your female will not pursue him.
A female Betta is more attracted to a male with long, undamaged fins because it’s tells the females he is an excellent fighter and in good health.
In conclusion, you should go over the following points to make sure that you have selected the best viable breeding male:
- Buy from reputable breeder.
- They’ll both be between 4-12 months when you’re ready to breed them.
- Male shows no signs of lethargy or disease.
- Male has bright coloration (red being most attractive to females).
- Male has long, undamaged funs.