Have You Seen Your Betta Fish Blowing Bubbles? Here’s What It’s Really Doing
If you own a Betta fish, you have or will at some point notice a very cool thing happening in the aquarium: You will notice your Betta fish blowing bubbles.
Your Betta fish is not broken! 🙂
Betta fish have an interesting ability to breathe surface air with a specialized set of labyrinth organs.
This informative article is about a related issue:
Betta fish blowing bubbles
Read the article below to get more information about bubble nests and Betta spawning behavior…
- Why do Betta fish end up blowing bubbles?
- Why does a male Betta fish blowing bubbles?
- Do female Betta fish make bubble nests?
- Do all male Betta fish male bubbles?
- Do sick Betta fish still make bubbles?
- How to encourage Betta splendens to blow more bubbles for a nest
- What are the perfect tank conditions that will encourage the Betta splendens to produce more bubbles?
Why do Betta fish end up blowing bubbles?
If you keep Betta fish, you will see clusters of bubbles near the surface of the water in your aquarium. It is almost always a bubble nest. Basically the nest is formed of bubbles that connect together to store eggs.
Why does a male Betta fish blowing bubbles?
The male will soon start building a foam nest. This is a sign that it is ready to mate. The male builds a huge foam nest before mating, which is later provided for the eggs.
The males use bubbles:
- To show that they are ready to mate
- To show that the tank belongs to them if they see another male
Do female Betta fish make bubble nests?
YES! There is a lot of confusion regarding this issue. However, it is true that female Betta fish make bubble nests although it is rare.
A female making bubbles is just an indication that they are mature enough and ready to breed.
Do all male Betta fish male bubbles?
NO. Not all males make bubbles. At times you might have a male Betta fish for a year and never see a bubble
Do sick Betta fish still make bubbles?
Sick can Betta fish can and will eventually make bubbles. However, when compared to healthy Betta fish, the size of the bubble is smaller.
How to encourage Betta splendens to blow more bubbles for a nest
If you want to breed Betta splendens, you should prepare your fish and the tank some time before you actually start breeding.
- The selected fish should be fed a little more vigorously.
- In addition to the (probably usual) flake food, it is important to ensure that live food is fed.
- The fish need sufficient strength for the spawning act and the subsequent brood care.
- So that both animals are ready to spawn, strong live food is helpful. Frozen food and other food can also be given.
- Suitable are e.g. B. Black and white mosquito larvae, frozen or alive, fruit flies, mosquito-sized insects and smaller earthworms.
- Because Betta splendens’ breeding business is very exhausting, males and females are filled with frozen or live food once or twice a day.
- The temperature during feeding can be approx. 25 ° C.
- If the animals still show no desire, a water change is carried out and the temperature may be increased to 27 °. Higher temperatures are actually not necessary.
- If both animals are placed in a special breeding tank, the female must always be used first.
What are the perfect tank conditions that will encourage the Betta splendens to produce more bubbles?
A simple basin with the edge lengths 40 x 25 x 25 is completely sufficient. A dark surface is recommended. Floor material can be dispensed with. The bottom of the basin can, for. B. painted dark on the outside. At least a single-colored, dark mat should be placed under the pool.
The male also finds eggs lying on the ground. The yield is correspondingly higher. A few eggs keep falling from the nest to the ground, especially when the water level is around 10 to 15 centimeters, as is often recommended.
In larger aquariums, the water level should possibly be lowered to about 15 centimeters.
On the other hand, the water level should be a little higher. During the mating act, when the animals are entwined, the parents sink slightly downwards. If the eggs are collected by the male while they are floating, before the eggs are in contact with the ground, the yield of larvae is much higher. The risk of the eggs coming into contact with bacteria on the ground is very high.
Heating is sufficient as a facility. The temperature can be between 25 ° and 28 ° C. 25 ° to 26 ° C is usually a suitable value. Higher temperatures are recommended to stimulate older or limp males for the brood. At higher temperatures, the cubs swim freely a little faster, but high temperatures harm the parents.
A filter can be used. It is important to ensure that there is hardly any surface current. Small foam internal filters, as well as a hamburger mat filter, are suitable for use.
Hiding places for the female should be available. If there is also a larger stone under the coconut, the female can hide well.
A piece of styrofoam should be on the surface of the water. A feeding ring or a piece of hose can also float on the surface of the water to help build the nest.
The male can build the foam nest under a 1 centimeter thick and approx. 10 centimeter diameter styrofoam plate or cork bark. According to one report, after spawning, the male took out the nest, bubble by bubble, from under the cork bark.
According to other experiences, fighting fish build the foam nest on the open water surface and not under a plate like thread fish.
Filtration is not necessary, but it does not do any harm and also brings out its positive effects in the breeding tank.
Water hardness and pH are not particularly important if the values are not too extreme. The water can be soft, with a pH value of 7. But breeding is also possible in water with a total hardness of 20 or a pH value of 7.5.
A 15 liter tank, which is densely planted with Java moss up to the surface of the water, can also be used for breeding. A problem with this breeding method is that the young animals do not get to the surface of the water if they fill their maze with air. This can be prevented with timely implementation.
Some breeders only cover 90% of the breeding aquariums for labyrinths. These breeders install neither ventilation nor filtering in the breeding tank. But the animals defecate. The bacterial activity during the breakdown of the faeces could result in a lack of oxygen. This can lead to the death of the clutch or the larvae. When the cover is slightly open, gas exchange takes place over the water surface.
It is possible to use an oxygen stone that creates small bubbles. Some breeders do not ventilate the tank until the young have hatched.