Aquarium Maintenance: The Ultimate Guide

aquarium maintenance

Aquarium Maintenance is more than just servicing the filter, testing the aquarium water and regular water changes.

Spending about thirty minutes on aquarium maintenance every other week, helps prevent common and time consuming problems.

The main goal of routine maintenance is a stable and balanced aquarium.

This guide give you a comprehensive approach to take in order maintain a healthy, clean and long lasting aquarium

Aquarium Maintenance: Dip Tube

Sometimes also called a sediment-remover, this is simply a piece of glass tubing, the upper end of which is closed with the finger.

The lower end is placed over the sediment and the finger raised, when the material will shoot up into the tube; the moment this happens, close the top again and lift the tube out, emptying it into some other receptacle.

The better types of dip-tube are fitted with a trap in the middle, so that several dips can be made before emptying.

After a few dips of this kind the tank will be cleaner, and the detritus can be thrown away.

This video shows you how to use Plasti Dip to make equipment inside your tank disappear

Aquarium maintenance tips to clean the dip tube

Replace part of the water every 30 days

It’s important to replace part of the water every thirty days.

The siphon with which this is removed can be used to keep the gravel washed clean if necessary by using what we call a “bell” siphon.

These are not available commercially as yet but the principle is that of using an inverted plastic cup about the size of an orange-juice glass to which is attached the rigid tube of the siphon.

The edges of the inverted cup can then be pressed against the gravel and the flow of water will wash all of the foreign material, waste matter, etc., free of the gravel and yet the gravel will not pass up through the siphon tube.

By moving the bell siphon over the bottom of the aquarium, nearly all of the sand or gravel can be washed clear at the siphoning periods.

Sometimes one is unlucky enough to be troubled with a microscopic plant, or alga (plural, algae), which forms dark blue-green sheets on the plants, glass or over the surface of the sand.

This can only happen if the higher plants are not functioning properly, but by choking them it makes matters worse, so it must be removed.

Usually it can be wiped off them gently with the fingers or a piece of stick, and scraped off the glass with a razor blade set on a long handle; pieces that fall to the sand can be siphoned out.

Bury a penny in one corner of the tank, as the small amount of copper that will be extracted from it will discourage the algae without harming the fishes. And put in a few more healthy plants to compete with the alga, for this is the best way of fighting it.

Other kinds of algae, bright yellow-green, may appear in your tank, but are not so undesirable; some of them will encrust the rocks and give a mature look, and they do not look unpleasant on the back and sides of the tank. The front glass can be kept clear with a razor-blade.

Filamentous algae, long threads forming dense flannel- like mats, often called blanket-weed, may also make their appearance, and can be dealt with in the same way as the blue-green algae, except that they are removed by twisting a stick so that they wrap round it; filamentous algae, however, are sometimes useful in a breeding tank as refuge for baby fish.

Should the water turn green, so that visibility is lessened, this means that there is more nourishment and light than the higher plants can use.

In that case the light should be reduced, either in wattage or hours, and some of the sediment removed. In extreme cases the water should be changed.

It’s important to replace part of the aquarium water every 30 days #honeygourami #aquariummaintenance

Aquarium Maintenance: Types of Food and Feeding Times

Fish can manage without food for several days. As part of aquarium maintenance, they are usually starved deliberately when traveling to avoid fouling the water in the aquarium. That means they will be hungry when they reach your aquarium.

Avoid immediately filling the aquarium with food at that point. More trouble results from giving too much food than from any other single cause.

Types of Aquarium foods to use as part of aquarium maintenance

1. Dried foods

You are well advised to buy cans of ready-made dried fish-foods. There are several very good brands.

What type of dried foods should I buy?

The best dried foods should:

  • Be well balanced
  • Contain protein
  • Contain a little carbohydrate
  • Contain essential salts and vitamins
What should I be cautious about?
  1. A few aquarium fishes like a good deal of vegetable matter, but most of them need more protein.
  2. Dried “ants’ eggs”—actually ants’ cocoons—are practically useless as food, and are not recommended.
How much dried food should I give fish?
  • An ordinary aquarium with 12 or 15 small fishes needs only as much dried food as will cover a penny, not heaped, for one feeding.
How should you feed fish?
  • The food can be sprinkled on the surface if the fishes are of a kind which will take it there
  • In the case of catfishes or loaches a little food should be soaked for a short time so that it sinks to the bottom where they can pick it up.
What grades of dried foods should I buy?

It is very important to use the right grade of food. Dried foods are often sold in three grades, fine, and coarse.

  • Medium grade is the most generally useful
  • Fine grade is normally for baby fish
  • Coarse grade is for bigger fish with large mouths
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • The vital thing is to ensure that the fishes eat all the food at once. If any is left over it will lie about at the bottom, rot and foul the water. The remnants can be easily removed with a dip-tube.
  • While the dried food is useful as a basic diet, it should be varied as much as possible. Fresh raw fish or lean raw beef, scraped, is usually appreciated, and small garden earth­ worms, finely chopped, provide one of the very best meals. Preparing the latter is rather messy, but is well worth-while— most fishes love this food and will grow on it rapidly.
  • Any compost heap will provide the small pink worms which are the best, and they can be cultivated in boxes of damp soil, fed with refuse from the kitchen.

2. White worms

White worms (Enchytraeus) are very useful for your aquarium maintenance.

They come as a culture which can be obtained from most aquarium shops.

How do I culture white worms?
  • These are cultivated in a wooden box which should be kept in a cool place.
  • Take a clean sifted soil
  • Place the worms in the box
  • Place a piece of glass a little smaller than the box on the flat on the surface of the soil
  • Cover the whole thing with a damp sack. It is essential to keep the culture damp (not wet)!
  • Place the culture somewhere dark
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • The worms must be fed regularly with a little bread and milk laid on the soil under the glass; they will accumulate round this, and multiply. But take care not to give too much food at a time, or it will foul the culture.
  • The worms collect in clumps round the food, and enough for a meal can often be found clinging to the underside of the glass when it is lifted.
  • They should be put in a jar of water to wash off any dirt before being given to the fishes. A pair of tweezers is useful for handling them.

3. Tubifex worms

Tubifex is a large red worm with tough skim found in the mud of rivers where sewage enters them. It is also a useful food for fish.

Many aquarists think that it upsets the digestion of fishes, and that diseases can be introduced with it, studies have found that not to be the case.

How should I handle the Tubifex worms?
  • Make sure that the worms are clean
  • After obtaining them from the dealer, they should be placed in a basin under a dribble of water from the cold tap in the sink and left overnight. This gives them time to empty the gut, and waste matter overflows with the water and down the drain.
  • Kept them under a dripping tap. Tubifex will live for many days. Remember that in warm weather they die very quickly and smells badly.
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • This worm can be fed whole to large fishes such as Cichlids, but should be chopped up for little ones.
  • The whole worms, if not eaten at once by the fish, will establish themselves in the sand and live for some time; in this case do not put more in, but let the fish clear them out, because otherwise some of them will die in time, and may pollute the water.

4. Micro worms

Micro worms are tiny soil worms (Anguillula).

They can be bought as a culture from dealers.

How do I culture micro worms?
  • Divide up the culture and put into several jam-jars containing a little porridge at the bottom.
  • Stand thin strips of wood, or matchsticks upright in the porridge. After a while the micro worms will collect on the strips
  • Wash off the micro worms into the tank
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • These worms, however, need warmth, about 7o°F. When a culture begins to smell, put some fresh porridge into a clean jar
  • Place some of the old culture in it. This will start a new one.
  • These worms are suitable for only very small fishes, and are used mostly by breeders for rearing the fry.

5. Daphnia

The so-called water fleas are found in ponds and ditches into which a certain amount of animal manure finds access.

Daphnia is one of the very best foods for fishes, and few will refuse it. Those left over from a meal will generally live until the fish feel hungry again.

How do I catch the water fleas?
  • Cover a duck pond or cattle pool with a large fine-meshed net
  • If it’s the summer simply use a bag  
  • Put the net with the flies in cans, or spread the net on sheets of wet muslin, if kept cool
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • When catching Daphnia, many other creatures are caught at the same time. Though them, unwelcome guests may be introduced to aquarium. To make sure your aquarium maintenance process does not involve extra work, it is advisable to get a clean sample from a dealer and breed your own.
How do I breed my own Daphnia?
  • Place an old-fashioned sink in a spot where it will get some sun only in the early morning
  • Fill it with water (hard water is best, and if the water in your district is soft the addition of a piece of marble will help)
  • Place a few of the largest specimens of Daphnia in the sink. These will be the female Daphnia. Before long the population will increase enormously. NOTE: Male Daphnia are not essential for reproduction.
  • Feed them every two days with a little dried animal blood, known as 99/9 by dusting it on the on the surface
  • As soon as a good number have been cultured, net a small quantity and feed them the fish
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • Daphnia require a lot of oxygen, and if the sink is allowed to become over-populated they will die off.
  • The aim is to take quantities out at about the same rate as they are reproducing so as to keep the culture stable.
  • The culture should be covered with a piece of muslin on a wooden frame, to keep out unwelcome visitors such as dragonflies and water-beetles.
  • When netted, Daphnia should be put in a jar or can of clean water before being given to the fishes. They can be graded into various sizes by passing through different meshes.

6. Other Aquarium Foods that do not contribute to the need for constant aquarium maintenance


The little white crustacean Cyclops is often taken together with Daphnia; some fishes will eat it, but most do not; it seems to have a bitter flavor.

This, and another shaped like a small haricot bean called Cypris which is also inedible, may become established in the tank, and can be a nuisance; the latter in particular must be kept out of a breeding tank, as they attack the eggs.


Bloodworms, the larvae of midges, are found often in rain-butts or other standing water.

Normally they are found mostly in the sediment at the bottom, and if some of this is put in a gauze bag suspended just above the surface of a jar of clean water they will get through the mesh and are then clean enough to use.

Mosquito larvae

Mosquito larvae found in similar places are also excellent food for fishes. NOTE: Do not feed the fish with the red mosquito larvae!


Unwanted young Guppies need never be wasted if you have a strictly carnivorous species of fish, for the task of stalking and eating them will brighten his life; some aquarists breed Guppies (not the best varieties of course) especially for this purpose.

Brine Shrimps

Newly hatched Brine shrimps are an excellent food for fish, particularly newly hatched young.

Other foods

As much live food as possible should be given; for experience shows that fishes thrive better on this than any other. But the diet should be varied as much as possible.

Some species, particularly Goldfish and Livebearers, like a good deal of vegetable food.

Ordinary duckweed is a favorite with Goldfish, and the Livebearers like some algae to browse on.

Some cooked spinach, chopped very fine, can be given. A little Bemax mixed with the food supplies valuable vitamins.

NOTE: Do not feed fish with the red mosquito larvae! #honeygourami #aquariummaintenance
Feeding Aquarium Fish How Much And How Often? Don’t Overfeed Fish!

Aquarium Maintenance: The best fish feeding times

Fishes should be given at least one meal a day especially in the morning.

Generally speaking, “a little and often” is the rule—always assuming that the little is consumed before more is given.

How does temperature affect fish feeding times?

The more the temperature goes up, the more the fish gets hungry, and vice versa.

  • Therefore, fish that are wintering in outdoor ponds will not eat, and should not be fed until spring except during unusually warm spells.
  • Those in aquaria at room temperature or higher have an appetite most of the time.

When is the best time to feed the fish?

  • Early in the morning
  • Keep regular hours – you will be amused to see how soon the fishes learn to tell the time

What happens when I go on holiday?

When you go on holiday, your fishes can remain without food for as long as three weeks, provided they have been well fed previously. It is safer to do that than to leave them to be fed by some inexperienced person, however willing.

1. Ask someone to look after your fish when you go on holiday

  • Make up a number of meal-sized packets of food
  • Put the dates on them to make sure the fish are not overfed or underfed

2. Join an aquarium club

There is usually a good chance of finding a fellow-member who will look after your fishes while you are gone.

For aquarium maintenance, it is important to remember the following points:

  • Train fish to always come to the same corner of the tank for the food. This will make cleaning the dip- tube much easier.
  • On top of that, it will be possible to drop some tit-bits elsewhere in the aquarium for any fish that frightened to get its proper share.
  • If there are many active, surface-swimming species they may get all the food before it sinks. Bottom-feeding fish like Corydoras may go hungry unless given special attention.
The more the temperature goes up, the more aquarium fish get hungry #honeygourami #aquariummaintenance

Aquarium Maintenance: Introducing new plants and species

If, after your tank has been operating for some time, you should introduce new aquarium plants or fishes with a lot of caution.

How to introduce new plants into an old aquarium

Even in a run-in aquarium, there can always be situations in which the aquarist wants to bring new aquarium plants into the tank.

Reasons why you might introduce new plants

If such a situation arises, of course, the question quickly arises of how you can introduce new aquarium plants without endangering the plant itself, the aquarium inhabitants or the biological balance in the aquarium.

Below are steps that will help you successfully introduce new plants to an old aquarium

1. Select suitable aquarium plants

You should think about which aquarium plants will fit into your own aquarium.

Thing to consider:

  • The existing population of animals and plants
  • The targeted location of the new aquarium plants and their requirements
Step1: Choosing the new aquarium plants:
  • If you keep animals in your aquarium that need a lot of hiding places, you should choose finely feathered plants.
  • If you keep animals that tend to damage aquarium plants, only very robust plants come into question. In addition, there are always rumors that individual aquarium plants could be harmful to certain aquarium animals.
  • If there are many large plants that shade the tank, you should only introduce new aquarium plants that require little light into the tank.
  • If you are looking for a plant for the foreground, you will rather choose a plant that remains small and has a slow growth rate, whereas a plant for the background usually has the properties of fast growth rate and expansive height.
Step 2: Consider the requirements of the existing plants
  • It is ideal if the requirements of the new aquarium plants correspond as far as possible with those of the existing ones and with those of the aquarium animals to be cared for.
  • If this is not the case, it usually means a lot of work to create water values ​​and conditions that are just as fair to the new plants as to the old and aquarium animals. In extreme cases, this is not even possible.

2. Identify good sources of supply

Once you have decided on certain new aquarium plants, you need to find a reputable source of supply.

A local aquatic specialist shop

Find a reputable local specialist who can offer in-depth advice on aquarium plants and can provide detailed information on the origin of the plants.

Order on the internet

You can alternatively order new aquarium plants on the Internet. Make sure to rely on recommendations from other aquarists regarding a reputable source of supply.

Other aquarists

It is also very safe and often inexpensive to seek direct contact with other aquarists.

They can often offer offshoots of plants that they are already successfully maintaining in their own aquarium and tips from their experience.

3. Check, water, clean aquarium plants

Check the aquarium once they arrive

Once the new aquarium plants have arrived, they will usually be checked carefully first.

Dead leaves should be removed – just like snails sitting on them if you don’t want to have these animals in your aquarium if possible.

Clean the plants

Some plants come pretreated. Chances are they have pollutants that you should not introduce into the aquarium.

  • Remove any existing pots, rock wool and lead weights
  • Rinse off the plant
Water the plants
  • Water the plants to free them of any pollutants such as fertilizer residues
  • Use watering as a form of quarantine: the chances of noticing pests such as planarians, growing algae or undesirable properties of the new aquarium plants increase at least somewhat if you first observe the new aquarium plants a little.

IMPORTANT: Long watering can also damage new aquarium plants

  • Choose a bright location for the container in which the plants will initially be kept and add heating if necessary.
  • Change the water regularly: this is how the pollutants washed out can be removed in the first place. If you did not change the water, the new aquarium plants would simply grow in a questionable brew.

4. Finally planting the new plants

Take care when finally planting the new plants in the aquarium

The roots of the new plants

The roots of many aquarium plants are quite sensitive. If they are handled improperly, this can mean that new aquarium plants grow less well or even do not thrive at all.

  • Remove dead roots and shorten the remaining root. This will produce better root growth so that the new aquarium plant can literally gain a better foothold in its new home.
  • Choose how you proceed with planting depending on the type of plant. Make sure that substrates are not introduced, which would lead to rotting and thus not only destroy the new aquarium plant, but also have a negative effect on the water quality in the aquarium.
  • Use plant tweezers to easily tie the plants to a decorative object with the help of appropriate cords that do not emit any harmful substances when they come into contact with water. If the plants have the ability to grow on decorative objects, the cords can later be removed from the aquarium.
For aquarium maintenance, it if important to remember the following points:
  • Once the new aquarium plants are in the aquarium, they should be observed regularly just like the aquarium inhabitants. This way you can quickly see whether the plant is doing well or whether it needs to be improved.
How to add new plants to your aquarium

How to introduce new fish into an old aquarium

You can make a lot of mistakes when placing and choosing the fish – but don’t worry, if you do everything carefully and step by step, nothing can go wrong.

The introduction of new stock into the aquarium needs to be well planned.

For planning, you can contact an aquarium club in your area or get advice from your pet dealer.

They can also help you to find the right water parameters in the aquarium for your dream fish. When you have made the preparations and the water values in your aquarium match those at the pet dealer or fish farmer, you are ready for the move.

1. Choose the right aquarium mates

Make sure that the new fish is compatible with the existing inhabitants of the aquarium

Goldfish and guppy? It does not work. Neons and armored catfish? Some species simply do not belong together.

  • Avoid incompatibility because it can lead to one species regarding the other as food. It might result into hunting season in the aquarium within a very short time.
Make sure that the temperature and other parameters in the aquarium is suitable for the new introduction
  • Some fish need completely different water parameters in order to feel good.
  • In addition to the temperature in the swimming area, this also includes the pH value and water hardness.
  • Even when it comes to the furnishings, tastes are different: some fish, for example, are primarily used as a retreat, while others would peel off the fresh green to the roots within a very short time.

2. Feed the newcomers

You should not feed the existing fish at all or only very sparingly on the day of introducing new inhabitants

Reasons why you don’t want to feed the existing fish on the day you introduce new inhabitants

You will keep the aquarium clean. The aquarium water is not unnecessarily polluted with food residues and excretions.

To ensure a peaceful introduction – Fish whose bellies are probably full are not necessarily more peaceful towards new roommates than those whose stomachs growl.

HOW TO: add new fish to your aquarium

Aquarium maintenance after introducing new inhabitants

  • Check the water values ​​regularly in the first few days after replenishing and observe the newcomers particularly closely.
  • Observe the fish: How is the behavior of the animals? Do all little swimmers look healthy? Are there no changes on the scales or fins?
  • Do not add a broad spectrum agent into the pool  
  • Only administer a medication if it is explicitly tailored to an illness that has already broken out
Make sure that the new fish is compatible with the existing inhabitants of the aquarium #honeygourami #aquariummaintenance

Aquarium Maintenance: Creating partitions

Reasons why you might want to create a partition in your aquarium

  • One fish is bullying the others
  • One is too shy to feed with the rest

How do you create a partition in the aquarium?

  • Cut piece of glass – cut just short of the inside width and height of the tank, to form a partition.
  • Cut two pieces of narrow-gauge rubber or plastic tubing (as used for aeration) to the height measurement
  • Split them down one side they will then clip on to the sides of the piece of glass, and when it is put in position, will wedge it firmly against back and front of the tank.
DIY aquarium divider

Having a partition is always handy if you have multiple fish species in the aquarium. If you have a small aquarium, you should watch out for overcrowding.

FUN FACT: Fish have a specialized sense organ called the lateral line, which works much like radar and
helps them navigate in dark or murky water #honeygourami #aquariummaintenance

Aquarium Maintenance: Using fish nets

A set of fish nets is essential to every aquarist, and can be bought in several sizes from an aquarium store.

  • A rectangular net useful for the aquarium
  • A small rounded net should be kept for using in round cans

Factors to consider when selecting the best fishnet for your aquarium

You can buy fish nets in a lot of various sizes, materials, and brands.

Before you purchase a fish net, take into account the following factors:

1. What size of fishnet do you need?

You should consider the size of your aquarium when making this determination.

Take into account the following:
  • Do you have small fish? Then it is ideal that you get a smaller sized net too – smaller fish are fast and can escape easily. However, fish get agitated during transportation. Therefore a medium size net is advisable
  • Do you have large fish? Then you should get a larger frame size and a deeper net – Large fish are heavier and tend to put up more of a struggle when transporting them.

2. Which mesh material for the fishnet should you choose?

You can get fish net made out of:
  • Soft material
  • Lightweight material
  • Nylon net
  • Coarse material
The type of use should determine the fish net material you choose.

3. What type of handle does the fish net have?

The fish net handle is important for 3 reasons:
  1. It determines how long your fish net will last
  2. It determines the amount of weight the fish net can carry
  3. If it comes with a hanging feature at the end it also allows you to store or hang your fishnet to dry off convenient.

4. What type of tank do you have?

It is very important to use the type of tank when choosing a fish tank.

There are 3 main types of tanks for domestic use:
1. Reef tanks

They normally have more plant content in them and quarrels that can produce waste material as well.

Fish Net Recommendation: Both a delicate net and a heavier coarser net.

2. Saltwater tanks

They usually have more complex species like shrimps, lobsters or larger species of fish.

Fish Net Recommendation: A coarser and bigger net that can handle the weight and is durable.

3. Freshwater tanks

They normally have smaller fish like better fish guppies, goldfish or other kinds of species.

Fish Net Recommendation: A simple nylon mesh net.

How to sterilize aquarium fish nets

8 Steps to sterilizing fish nets with just salt

  1. Add hot water into a deep bucket. The quantity of hot water depends on the number of fish nets you are looking to sterilize.
  2. Add 2- 3 tablespoons of salt into a bucket of hot water to make the hot water more efficient sterilizer. The amount of salt depends on the amount of hot water.
  3. Use a longer rod or spoon to completely dissolve the salt in the water
  4. Once the mixture of salt and hot water is ready, immerse the fish nets into the water. Make sure you fully immerse the fish nets
  5. Leave the fish nets in the bucket for at least 24 hours before taking them out. The salty water will kill any leftover bacteria and possible staining that might have happened over time.
  6. Take the fish nets out and rinse under fresh running water to take off any excess salt residue
  7. Give your fishnet another thorough clean.
  8. Dry the fish nets in direct sunlight.

Aquarium Maintenance: Using snails

Are snails good for your fish tank?

The main function that snails play in the aquarium is to maintain freshwater aquariums. However, you have to choose the right type of snail.

Because snails feed on algae, dead plant material, dead fish and other detritus, they are a very good option to help you keep your tank clean.

How do I choose the right type of snail?

Factors that will determine the right type of snail for the aquarium are:

  • How much water is in the tank?
  • Does your aquarium have metals, especially copper, filtered from the water?
  • Do you add calcium the water?
  • Does the aquarium have a lid?

1. Apple Snail (Ampullariidae)

Apple snails are nocturnal tropical and sub-tropical mollusks

aquarium maintenance
Characteristics of the Apple snails
  • A tube-like organ called a siphon that allows them to breathe while under water
  • Long tentacles with eyes on either side of the mouth
  • Round globe-like shell
  • Lays eggs on the surface of the water
Other Apple snails facts
  • Color: They range from black to bright yellow in color
  • Lifespan: of 2-5 years
  • Diameter: up to 6 inches
  • Water: Apple snails need 2.5 gallons of water per snail
  • Temperature: 65 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Diet: live plants, algae
  • Problematic: overpopulation from overfeeding
  • Solution to overcrowding: keep the water temperature around 70-75 degrees

2. Trumpet Snail (Melanoides tuberculata)

Characteristics of the Trumpet snails (also known as the Malaysian Trumpet snail or red-rimmed melania)
  • It has a 1 inch long, cone-shaped shell with rows of darker markings
  • A light gray body
  • It doesn’t eat live plants
  • Feeds on algae, leftover fish food, dead plants and dead fish
  • Are hermaphrodites, so they tend to multiply quickly
Other Trumpet snail facts
  • Population control: removing all but one snail, regularly vacuuming the gravel and avoiding overfeeding.
  • Water: 1 gallon of water per snail
  • Water temperature: between 64.5 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit
  • PH: 7-8
  • Additional requirements: a substrate of sand or moss for burrowing – to aerate the substrate releasing pockets of anaerobic gasses which ensures proper oxygenation of the water.

3.     Nerite Snail (Neritina natalensis)

Characteristics of the Nerite snails
  • They come in a variety of types with the most popular aquarium types being the Black Racer, the Tiger and the Zebra among others
  • They are peaceful
  • 1-inch long creatures
  • They live for 1-2 years
  • They don’t reproduce in fresh water.
Other Nerite snails facts
  • Water: 2.5 gallons of water per snail
  • Water temperature: 75-81 degrees Fahrenheit
  • PH: 7-8
  • Home: Ideal hiding places are natural rock, driftwood, and so forth
  • Diet: They don’t eat tank plants, but they thrive on all types of algae as well as flake or pellet fish food.

Aquarium Maintenance: Final note

As a final word about aquarium maintenance: Don’t do too much it.

Aquaria are best left alone as much as possible. Many people fuss with them, moving the plants about, tinkering with the water, scraping and siphoning, netting and dosing the fishes and so on, all the time.

The aquarium inhabitants get no peace at all.

Once you have set up the aquarium and the inhabitants have moved in, allow time for everything to settle down and only carry out any maintenance if and when necessary.

Enjoy your sustainable and maintained aquarium!!